2021 CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony – Celebrating Counterfeit

2021 CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony – Celebrating Counterfeit. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Emily Blunt, Chairman of the CFDA Tom Ford, Dame Anna Wintour, Designer Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering - CFDA Award 2021

CFDA Fashion Awards 2021 ceremony took place at the Pool + The Grill within the Seagram Building on Park Avenue. The fabulous evening was hosted by actress Emily Blunt.

Celebration of counterfeit and illegal goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award

This year CFDA honored counterfeit goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award, making him the first designer without a fashion show, and the first designer who produced counterfeit goods, chased by FBI, to ever win the honor.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Dapper Dan was tearing when he received the award this Wednesday November 10. He proudly told the story how he printed on fabrics in his atelier the logos of Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Fendi, how he picked the designs from sportswear companies, or Christian Dior Haute Couture designs for the famous jacket he made with Louis Vuitton printed logos to Olympic Runner Diane Lynn Dixon, or how he mixed Gucci and Louis Vuitton logos on the bomber jackets. Dapper Dan proudly told the story about how he “created” jackets, even total looks for drug-lords, rap or hip-hop singers.

Dapper Dan also told the story about how fashion brands filed massive lawsuit against him, he was chased by FBI, and finally they were able to close his atelier in Harlem, and strip him from all money he earned by production of illegal goods. Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dior, and specifically Fendi put the end to this illegal production. 

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Olympic Runner Diane Dixon - Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of CFDA Award 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

In 2017 CEO of Kering Luxury Group Francois-Henri Pinault and CEO of Gucci Marco Bizzarri decided to invest several million dollars, and and relaunched Dapper Dan as a by-appointment studio for custom pieces. Dapper Dan himself was even starring in Gucci’s new men’s-tailoring ad campaign.

In another words CEO of Kering Luxury Group Francois-Henri Pinault released “Counterfeit Bacteria” on the world and started “Counterfeit Pandemic“, which spreads today as rapidly as coronavirus. Here and there I see “designers”, who present even in department stores their counterfeit production, some sort of hybrids.

I’m asking myself a question – is that some strange way of Kering to “outsmart” LVMH? Gucci belongs to the Group Kering, Luxury goods company. Louis Vuitton belongs to LVMH – another Luxury goods company. And back in the 90s Dapper Dan used mostly Louis Vuitton,  Gucci and Fendi logos, mixing and matching them up. It is known that Kering and LVMH for more than 50 years had a war for territory in the luxury market. So when in 2017 Gucci invested to re-opened an atelier in Harlem for Dapper Dan, invested to clean up his reputation, paid media (and specifically to one), made him sponsor of New York Fashion Week, there is a reason for that. Tailoring method, or as Dapper Dan calls it “designs”, which were used with Louis Vuitton logos today remade with the logos of Gucci. Is it another way, quiet pervert I might add, to take territory from LVMH? The perversity of it all, mind games if you like, would be this investment in Dapper Dan of François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering, with desire to “outsmart” Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, and take the “territory” which is definitely outside of law, in the dark side, belonged to LVMH in the past. Although this mind game of Francois-Henri Pinault has a very dark outcome. He didn’t think about circumstances, how it’ll affect sociality, and what destructive results it could bring worldwide just 3 years after. Bringing Dapper Dan to the light side, paying the media to clean up his reputation, naming him “true genius”, made him sponsor of New York Fashion week, give him lifetime achievement award by CFDA in 2021 opened up a path to legitimize all illegal producers, counterfeit designers. And started “Counterfeit Pandemic”. 

In 2018 Vogue became promotion outlet for Dapper Dan, in 2019 Vogue invited as a guest of honor Dapper Dan to The Met Gala, invited stars to visit his atelier in Harlem. And in 2021 Pepsi who wanted to become a sponsor of New York Fashion Week Dapper Dan was imposed, so he can also be announced as a sponsor of New York Fashion Week. And the last – CFDA honored Dapper Dan with lifetime achievement award in 2021.

Chairman of CFDA Tom Ford celebrates Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dapper Dan CFDA Award 2021

Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri, A$AP Ferg, Susan Chokachi celebrate CFDA Award 2021 of Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan

The shadowy business of counterfeits has taken over the globe to become a $1.2 trillion industry. Despite extensive and expensive efforts by brands, by law enforcement, efforts of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (“OECD”) and the European Union Intellectual Property Office (“EUIPO”), this shadowy business became the center of the attention during this New York Fashion Week, and the most known designer / tailor of counterfeit illegal goods Dapper Dan was honored by lifetime achievement award for his counterfeit illegal goods production in 90s from its organizer CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).

“We’re also incredibly pleased to see several talented names among the nominees for the first time. American fashion is experiencing a renewed energy, and the designers play a significant role in the future trajectory of our industry,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

In parenthesis. Michael Kors at the beginning of 2021 proposed concept FENDACE, a collaboration between Fendi and Versace. Let’s say it is a very creative way against counterfeit pandemic. Fendi was the one who insisted in 1990s to put the end to counterfeit illegal activities of Dapper Dan, close his atelier, and strip him of all earnings.

Michael Kors didn’t approve the nomination of a counterfeit goods tailor Dapper Dan with lifetime achievement award, his sponsorship of New York Fashion Week. He predicted the “Counterfeit Pandemic” and decided to confront it in the most creative way – with the concept. Capri Holdings Limited, a multinational fashion holding company, founded and owned by American designer Michael Kors, since 2018 owns Versace – the most popular luxury brand, and the one being the most exposed to counterfeit.

Michael Kors proposed a concept to Donatella Versace and Fendi to create a mix-match collection and united their logos and styles. If public want to see Versace and Fendi logos in one luxury item, so let’s create it for them in one outfit and by these brands. This absolutely brilliant concept had a huge success during Milan Fashion Week this September. The collection Versace and Fendi got a name FENDACE. Donatella Versace leaded this project. Michael Kors even flew to Milan for the show.

Fendi Versace collaboration - Fendace - by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Back to Celebration of counterfeit and illegal goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award….

“This is an important moment in American fashion. There is much excitement about the return of New York City and New York Fashion Week as well as the top caliber of diverse talent making their mark on the city and the global fashion landscape. The CFDA Fashion Awards are our biggest fundraiser of the year, and we are looking forward to our industry coming together, in person again, to celebrate the very best of American creativity,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

Nominations for each award category were submitted by the CFDA Fashion Awards Guild, comprised of members of the CFDA, and Vogue magazine.

Winners of CFDA Fashion Awards 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

American Womenswear Designer of the Year Christopher John Rogers – CFDA Award 2021

Drew Barrymore and Christian Siriano at CFDA Award 2021

Emerging Designer Of The Year Edvin Thompson Of Theophilio – CFDA Award 2021

Founders Award of the Year Aurora James and Dame Anna Wintour – CFDA Award 2021

Inaugural Face of the Year Award Anya Taylor-Joy presented by Cara Delevingne – CFDA Award 2021

International Women’s Designer of the Year Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering Group – CFDA Award 2021

The Board of Directors Tribute honoree Yeohlee Teng, presented by Michael Kors – CFDA Award 2021

Zendaya, 2021 CFDA Fashion Icon, Iman and stylist Law Roach at CFDA Award 2021

Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Summer 2021

Giorgio Armani Privé Couture Summer 2021. The recipe of Haute Couture: unrestrained creativity, the rigour of tradition, the jealously guarded artisanal secrets of the petites mains, a tireless work ethic and a pinch of fairy dust which imbues each look with a magical glow.

Giorgio Armani’s collections tell of his career, his sense of freedom, his independence in the face of current trends. This “Private” collection, which is presented for the first time at Palazzo Orsini – the heart of its Atelier in Milan, witness to the creation and birth of its creations – pays homage to the city of Milan.

EVERY LOOK FROM THE GIORGIO ARMANI COUTURE SUMMER 2021

Valentino Couture Summer 2021

Valentino Couture Summer 2021. Gold, Venetian masks painted gold, bright colors and overwhelming Romanticism of Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of House Valentino, is the whole new story of House Valentino for Summer 2021 season. And let us hope that these bright colors will lighten up our hearts with hope and inspire us for greatness.

“When I first started to work on this show, I had clear in mind what I wanted to see. The essence of couture lays on how the couture is done and most of all by who is done. It lays in the ability of seamstress and tailors to manipulate fabrics and threads through a process that transcend the mere execution. We create together and while we do it the creation itself changes whoever is involved in the making. it’s a mutual exchange in which everything is transformed. Now we are here, ready to show the outcome of our journey. What you see here is the result of months, days and hours of the work of the incredibly talented, gifted, human beings that works in the Valentino Atelier. I can’t think of anything better than a princely residence, in our home, Roma, to reveal the real nobility of their job. I am proud of what we did. I am proud of this team and with them by my side, anything is possible. This is now, this is the future, no gender boundaries, no boundaries at all. This is fashion, this is couture.” – creative director of Maison Valentino Pierpaolo Piccioli.

EVERY LOOK FROM THE VALENTINO COUTURE SUMMER 2021

Milano Digital Fashion Week 2020

Milano Digital Fashion Week 2020. Fascinating digital experience reports by RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®. 

After the fist day of discovery and absolutely fascinating digital experience offered by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CameraModa) – Fashion Federation in Italy, to the press, 2d,3d and 4th days of Milan Digital Fashion Week proposed numerous great fashion presentations of big fashion houses, emerging brands and young talented designers. In addition there were great subjects were covered about sustainability, ecology and how to live and have safe environment. 

Read more about

Milan Digital Fashion Week 2020 Day 2

Milan Digital Fashion Week 2020 Day 2

Milan Digital Fashion Week 2020 Day 3

Milan Digital Fashion Week 2020 Day 3

Milan Digital Fashion Week 2020 Day 4

Milan Digital Fashion Week 2020 Day 3

Milan Digital Fashion Week 2020 Day 1

Milan Digital Fashion Week 2020 Day 1. Fascinating digital experience reports by RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®. When you say “digital” you imagine moving pictures, moving videos. Add here the word “Happening” in the sense of Andy Warhol. Digital platform created by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana – Fashion Federation in Italy – that’s what it is.

This is not an online magazine with articles and youtube videos. This is where happening is happening now with no replays. Each and every media who got invited to cover this fashion week has access to this “happening” digital experience.

Milano Digital Fashion Week commences today with a calendar of Spring-Summer 2021 Mens and mens and womens pre-collection fashion shows. Through this landmark digital platform,

42 brands and 21 new Italian and international names will showcase their latest styles, while seven thematic rooms will showcase inspiring editorial content selected by nine curators.

Milano Digital Fashion Week 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Carlo Capasa, Chairman of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana:

“For the first time in its history, CNMI is experimenting with a highly-innovative formula, through a live, digital platform that represents a new form of storytelling for the Italian fashion industry.

Milan Digital Fashion Week is a dynamic response to the complexity of today. It’s an ultra-inspiring tool, designed to support, rather than replace, the physical fashion calendar, which will resume in September. A landmark antidote to an age marked by social distancing and travel restrictions imposed by the global health crisis. One that aims to provide a dynamic solution to the complexity of the present, a functional and creative tool amid these times and to support to the brands, when normalcy returns, in their physical fashion shows, which remains a crucial tool in conveying Made in Italy’s prowess and creative impact.

With the February launch of China We Are With You, a ground-breaking digital experience, CNMI rapidly created a digital bridge with the Chinese public, affording them the opportunity to experience the Milan catwalk shows, despite travel restrictions brought on by the unexpected evolution of the Covid-19 pandemic. Emboldened by this experience, we are presenting an ever-more revolutionary project that will open Milan Fashion Week up to a broader audience of non-professionals: a demographic composed of younger generations that consume fashion via images and to whom CNMI has assumed the role as Fashion Translator with the aim of conveying the creativity and culture that emanates from the Italian fashion world”.

This was a surprise!!!!!! So RUNWAY MAGAZINE will follow this digital experience, and publish additional information and reports of this day, and more fascinating moments.

The most remarkable shows of the day:

Prada Spring Summer 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week

Prada Sopring Summer 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Alberta Ferretti Spring Summer 2021 (Resort 2021) Milan Digital Fashion Week

Alberta Ferretti Spring Summer 2021 Resort Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Vivetta Resort 2021 Cruise Milan Digital Fashion Week

Vivetta Resort 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Moschino Spring Summer 2021 (Resort 2021) Milan Digital Fashion Week

Moschino Spring Summer 2021 Men Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Philipp Plein Spring Summer 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week

Philipp Plein Spring Summer 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020

The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020 – Delvaux, Ermenegildo Zegna, Yeezy by Kanye West, Madonna Madam X pop-up store, Schiaparelli.

Despite of all complications, cancelled shows and presentations, this Paris Fashion Week had some spectacular events and presentations for the next Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season. Let’s check the ones we enjoyed the most.

Delvaux

One of the most fabulous event this season was a presentation of Delvaux 1829, oldest fine leather luxury goods house from Belgium. The house welcomed many guests this season. The guest of honor was a movie star Isabelle Huppert, the French star, winner of numerous Cesars and Oscar for Best Actress. 

Warm welcome during countless hours were very much appreciated by the guests. Another absolutely collection right away find its admirers right away.

Read more about the collection HERE.

Isabelle Huppert and Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week

Delvaux presentations Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God

Another very special presentation took the place this season – a collection for men and women from Ermenegildo Zegna, one of the oldest finest sartorial houses and Fear of God, a young brand from Los Angeles. Exceptional collection deserved an exceptional look from many special guests, like artistic director of Louis Vuitton fashion house Nicolas Ghesquiere, who also came to admire and greet the designers Alessandro Sartori and Jerry Lorenzo.

Read more about the collection HERE.

From right to left: Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, and Jerry Lorenzo, founder of Fear of God. Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Yeezy by Kanye West

Kim Kardashian and Kanye West brought to Paris love to KFC, first concert of Sunday Service (gospel performance), and the show of Yeezy, a street wear line. They came 2 weeks in advance and amused Paris by ordering chicken wings in KFC on Strasbourg St Denis on their way to satisfy their shopping needs with Jean Paul Gaultier and Balmain.

Kanye West for the first time brought his Sunday Service to Europe. He started with Paris, he performed the gospels just day before the presentation of the his collection. It was quiet special event, which was not at all appreciated by fashion press for many reason. It might take more than chicken wings, praising God and quiet few doubloons to conquer Paris.

Read more about the collection HERE.

Kanye West at Yeezy presentation during Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Yeezy by Kanye West Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Madonna Madam X Mae

Madonna followed Kim Kardashian and Kanye West. She started her world “Madame X Tour” from Paris in Grand Rex. And at the same time she opened pop-up store on Filles du Calvaire (Marais) to show her collection March 4th. Available in this pop-up store exclusive items created by painter and stylist Mae with the colors of Madonna’s “Madame X Tour”. Black, red, white t-shirts or hoodies, customized hats, vinyls, pictures numbered by the artist and shot by Ricardo Gomes, with camouflage patterns, reflecting Madonna herself and her intimate world tour. Exclusive items in limited edition only available at this pop-up store.

A charity sale planned on Thursday March 12 for the foundation created by Madonna, Raising Malawi. Madonna will be present at this event.

Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli

And of course private presentation at the house of Schiaparelli on Place Vendome was appreciated the most. It is not that long ago this Haute Couture fashion house with great and very artistic history started the line of Ready-to-Wear. Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli fabulously “translated” codes of the house into surrealistic pieces and accessories. We noted on instagram special guests who visited Schiaparelli fashion house during this presentation day played with the glasses like children and tried them on.

Visiting the workshop, checking the new designs, sketches, discussing history, color choices and fabrics, and champagne of course made this private visit a delight during this fashion week.

Read more about the collection HERE.

Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Eleonora de Gray and Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris

Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Guillaumette Duplaix at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

See reviews of the collections presented during this Paris Fashion Week Ready-to-Wear Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season HERE.

2020 Trend “Marie Antoinette” by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

2020 Trend “Marie Antoinette” by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Marie-Antoinette style became more and more popular. Quietly this style entered into the market. It all started from this…

Sofia Coppola – Marie Antoinette – movie 2006

Fancy mistake on the movie setting changed it all. In 2006 Sofia Coppola decided to keep this fancy few seconds in the movie, which changed fashion for the next 20 years.

Over the years designers tried to exercise their creativity and produce all kinds of shoes, and specially snickers.

Marie Antoinette style sneakers

This fancy style never left the scene because it is always create the dream and the wonder. Some fashion designers tried to push it really hard.

Finally Thom Browne, great tailor from New York, with long history with Ermenegildo Zegna, reached the absolute in menswear and fine tailored suits and gone wild. He decided to go for the fancy extraordinary suits for men and women, and he is the one who created the scandal in Paris in July 2019.

He showed in Paris fine tailors for the football players (or something) in the style of Marie Antoinette – Spring Summer 2020 season. A year later for the Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season Jeremy Scott, great imitator, and artistic designer of Moschino, decided to go even further, and to make this Marie Antoinette style ultimately popular. He showed spectacular collection in Milan, and we all hope that “Marie Antoinette” classy punch into the face of fashion will work very well and became a new trend.

And here are some thoughts….

© Creative work of RUNWAY MAGAZINE / Eleonora de Gray – All rights reserved.

Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

So get your sneakers ready to go…. and don’t forget the bows.

Postscript. After publication of this article we saw little presentation of shows of Gherardo Felloni, the artistic director of the French brand Roger Vivier. He decided to show his new collection of extravagant shoes and line of jewelry by 2 models dressed in Marie Antoinette style with heads of cats in boudoir type of situation.

Roger Vivier Fall-Winter 2020-2021 presentation Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

And again sneakers must go on…